The old excavation house ("Nazzal's Camp") located in the heart of Petra between the Qasr el-Bint (Temple of Dushares) and the rock outcrop known as El-Habis (on top of which are the ruins of a Crusader castle). Originally built as a hotel for early travelers to Petra, it was managed for many years by "three cross-eyed brothers". In 1995, the building was renovated by the Swiss and renamed the Burkhardt Center after the Swiss explorer, Johann Burkhardt, who, in 1812, was the first westerner to set eyes on Petra in six centuries (the Crusaders abandoned all of their fortresses in the region by the end of the 12th century).
"Ahmed al-Bedoul: a Bedouin of the 21st Century"
I want to introduce you to Ahmed al-Bedoul. He began working for the Great Temple Project in 1994 at the age of 17, as one of the cooks and housekeepers. Although it was his first time doing such work, Ahmed was a fast learner and hard worker and quickly became an important member of the team.
Unless otherwise indicated, all photos, illustrations and text on this site are Copyright © 1999,  Leigh-Ann Bedal.
  Last updated: January 2003
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Ahmed al-Bedoul in 1994.
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The old excavation house ("Nazzal's Camp") located in the heart of Petra between the Qasr el-Bint (Temple of Dushares) and the rock outcrop known as El-Habis (on top of which are the ruins of a Crusader castle). Originally built as a hotel for early travelers to Petra, it was managed for many years by "three cross-eyed brothers". In 1995, the building was renovated by the Swiss and renamed the Burkhardt Center after the Swiss explorer, Johann Burkhardt, who, in 1812, was the first westerner to set eyes on Petra in six centuries (the Crusaders abandoned all of their fortresses in the region by the end of the 12th century).
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Haroun Hamed and Ahmed wearing baseball caps and sunglasses given to them by the archaeologists.
During that first excavation season, Ahmed received the results of the qualifying exams he had taken upon completion of High School and learned that he was accepted into Jordan University in Amman. We were all very proud of him and wished him well in his future endeavors. However, the very next summer, Ahmed was back working with us in Petra. Although he had enjoyed his time at the university and learned a lot, he did not like city life and missed Petra. Like many of the Bedoul, he preferred to sleep outdoors under that stars and so chose to sleep on the dormitory roof instead of his bed.
Abu Faisal's Famous Hummus
Description:  Hummus is a thick paste made of chickpeas with tahina, garlic, lemon juice and garlic, which is usually served on a large platter, garnished with olive oil, and used as a dip for pita bread and falafel. Westerners have found a wide range of uses for Hummus. It is a tasty spread for crackers and toasted breads, and is a pleasant alternative spread for sandwiches. I like it with french fries!
Ingredients: 1kilo dried chick peas; water; 1 ¼ tbsp baking soda; 4 garlic cloves; salt; 2 lemons; 1 cup tahina (ground sesame seeds); Desired garnishes: sliced tomatoes, olive oil, parsley, sliced pickles, olives, pine nuts, sliced almonds
Preparation:  Directions as described by Abu Faisal:
-Remove any small stones from dried chick peas.
-Wash chick peas and soak in cold water (with 1 tbsp baking soda dissolved in it) for 3 to 4 hours until they become big and soft.
-Rinse thoroughly.
-Boil well in water with ¼ tsp baking soda until the chick peas can be smashed with a fork.
-Drain waterleaving only enough to aid in smashing the chick peas.
-Blend until smooth (like mashed potatoes)
-Press garlic cloves with salt and add to the juice of 2 whole lemons.
-Mix the smashed chick peas and garlic-lemon juice with tahina.
-Spread the hummus on a large flat platter forming a ridge around the edge.
-Garnish as desired.
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Abu Faisal
In 1996, the Great Temple Project hired a new cook from Amman. Abu Faisal is in his 70s (he does not know what year he was born), and has had a long and interesting life. In his youth, he spent some years cooking for the royal family and he has some wonderful stories about the late King Hussein as a young man -- apparently he loved to go fishing. Abu Faisal also cooked for the British Royal Air Force and so is able to prepare a wonderful shepherd's pie and other British delicacies that brighten up the typical dig fare.
Well, Ahmed and Abu Faisal hit it off right away with Abu Faisal teaching Ahmed  the proper way to run an efficient, clean kitchen and Ahmed introducing Abu Faisal to the local Bedouin culture. There was even an attempt to get Abu Faisal to marry Ahmed's mother (below) but she would have nothing of it. Then Ahmed introduced Abu Faisal to another prospective bride, but it turned out to be Hussein dressed up as a woman (Ahmed has a great sense of humor). But Abu Faisal doesn't need to get married. He has had seven wives already -- the first "old" wife is still with him.
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Ahmed, Abu Faisal, and Ali Dakhilallah on the night of the end-of-the-season dinner. Abu Faisal and Ali surprised all of us by showing up dressed as a grumpy old sheikh and his flirtatious young bride.
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Ahmed's mother, Umm Nasser
When not working with the Brown University team during the summer, Ahmed is busy as part-owner of a co-op restaurant (below) that serves the many tourists who visit Petra each day. This restaurant has grown from a small cafe-like business to a large restaurant with the seating capacity of 200. Their buffet is excellent and served with the usual Arab hospitality.
(left) Ahmed (in blue) with the restaurant crew. Ahmed's father is seated on his left;
(right) Ali Dakhilallah and Ahmed showing off tomatoes used in the restaurant's buffet.
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In the Summer of 1999, Ahmed set up an e-mail account for himself and has become quite proficient with a scanner and photo imaging. In addition to the occasional update on his life and activities in Petra, members of the archaeological team receive wonderful postcards from Ahmed like the ones shown above. My particular favorite is the one where he has a blond beauty queen draped around his neck, but I have no idea what he means when he declares "NO KISS". Perhaps some day Ahmed will explain this to me. What is wonderful is that I will be able to send the URL for this page to Ahmed so he can see it and show it to his friends in Jordan and provide feedback. Perhaps he will want to add an anecdote or two!
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